Terminus at Flinders Hotel
15/20
French$$$
The quiet, understated Terminus dining room may lack the wow – and vineyard views – of some peninsula darlings, but who needs that when the food is the real star? Interesting, flavour-packed dishes showcase chef Pierre Khodja’s confident fusion of his North African heritage and classical French training. Presentation is detailed and elegant; three plump scallops are interspersed with discs of subtly spiced black pudding crusted with pistachio and walnut, the accompanying smoked eel patty topped with green apple batons and resting on a piquant apricot and ginger chutney. A flaky oblong of delicate crab bastilla offsets the earthiness of foie gras-stuffed pigeon, the dish unified by a slick of rich date sauce. Three types of mushrooms dress a juicy wedge of baked hapuku, well-matched with the pastry crunch of an oxtail-filled borek, while a heavenly chocolate dessert platter and Moroccan mint tea make a fitting finish. Top-notch service completes a serious dining experience.
And … The hotel’s family-friendly Deck bistro is open seven days.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Serious and serene.
Best bit Bold blend of French and North African techniques.
Worst bit Room can feel stiff.
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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/terminus-at-flinders-hotel-20141008-3hioc.html