Many gastropubs are so posh that to call them 'pubs' is a misnomer, but O'Connell's retains its heritage warmth and informality. Sure, the comfortable Art Deco dining room could use a freshen up, but the menu's solid, though chef Paul Cooper departed and was replaced by Daniel Cairns as we went to press. Expect well-executed 'favourites' (schnitzels, burgers and the like) as well as more complex dishes. Golden fish cakes might be made from salted cod poached in milk with a subtle touch of lemon myrtle. Or an assiette of baby goat, using nose-to-tail techniques; small discs of loin rolled in parsley and breadcrumbs, wood-grilled chunks of leg, rolled shoulder slow-cooked overnight, a croquette of miso-sweetened belly and a chermoula-spiced pithiviers made from the neck. Steak options may include a moistly tender wood-grilled Hopkins River scotch fillet, its flavour intensified by salt-brining. For dessert, perhaps a creamy log of subtly honey-flavoured iced nougat, given texture with crunchy caramel and crystallised pumpkin seeds.