NewsBite

Advertisement

Sophisticated speakeasy vibes and souvas in Seddon

Michael Harden
Michael Harden

The Nouvelle Noisette is 'grown-up savoury goodness'.
The Nouvelle Noisette is 'grown-up savoury goodness'.Josh Robenstone

Greek

It's Saturday night on Buckley Street in Seddon and things are not looking good for those who lament the gentrification of the west.

In a doorway next to Brixton Pound, a precisely styled streetwear store with Converse, Lacoste and Carhartt on the shelves, stands a well-dressed gent armed with a clipboard. There's another doorway behind him, unmarked. At first glance it could be the door to the shop's storeroom but a keypad and camera-equipped intercom suggest otherwise.

And once the well-dressed (and charming) gent has consulted his clipboard and ascertained there's space, you're ushered through the door, down a corridor and into Lay Low.

Advertisement
Inside Seddon speakeasy, Lay Low.
Inside Seddon speakeasy, Lay Low.Eddie Jim

The interior lives up to the drum roll. A timber-backed upholstered banquette snakes along one wall. A burnt orange tiled bar glows under soft lighting. Industrial metal lampshades hang from the ceiling and a wall of metal-framed glass frames a picturesquely scruffy laneway. There are indoor plants and 1970s rumpus room-style wood panelling.

On this Saturday night, there's also a capacity crowd of snappily dressed and good-looking folk, yukking it up over cocktails served in quality glassware and artisan beer in cans. If you wanted a snapshot of the new west, here it is.

Lay Low's superpower is that it's as committed to the quality and integrity of its drinks as it is to its sophisticated speakeasy moves.

The signature Seddon Sling.
The signature Seddon Sling.Josh Robenstone
Advertisement

The booze list is stacked with independent spirit, wine and beer makers and there's a focus on sustainable bartending where citrus husks are cooked into a stock for use in the cocktails and avocado seeds are used to make orgeat syrup. There are, obviously, no plastic straws.

The list of original cocktails is compelling, full of interesting combinations focused more on flavour than booze.

The cloudy but clean-tasting Carrot Top sees MeMo gin (from the Melbourne Moonshine Company in South Melbourne) mixed with carrot, ginger and citrus, a virtuous combination with a lingering, warming, spicy ginger aftertaste.

Snacks are from neighbour the Brotherhood Yiros and Grill.
Snacks are from neighbour the Brotherhood Yiros and Grill.Josh Robenstone

There's grown-up savoury goodness to be had in the Nouvelle Noisette, a blend of mescal, manzanilla, mandarin and hazelnut, and for those after a dessert-like quaffer that isn't an espresso martini, the Pancake Breakfast blends rum, coffee, caramelised banana and amaro to excellent effect.

Advertisement

All the wine on a brief seven-bottle list is available by the glass and leans towards the natural – skin-contact pinot gris, Adelaide Hills rosé made with aglianico (a black grape originally from Greece) – while local beer makers such as Hop Nation are featured on tap and in the can.

Snacks at Lay Low come from The Brotherhood Yiros and Grill, a cute-as-a-button hole-in-the-wall in a side street around the corner from Lay Low. They do good stuff: simple and robust food that runs the Hellenic gamut from a trio of mini souvas (chicken and lamb on house-made pita) to thick-cut chips topped with feta and oregano and drink-friendly kolokithokeftedes (zucchini, feta and ricotta fritters) served with tzatziki.

Chip-stuffed souvlaki from the Brotherhood.
Chip-stuffed souvlaki from the Brotherhood.Eddie Jim

On paper, some of Lay Low's attributes – no signage, sustainable bartending, new west address, recycled avocado seeds – might sound insufferably fashionable. But attitude and atmosphere here are relaxed and unpretentious. It's a smart, solid place with a good heart that will do you right, no matter what your views on the neighbourhood may be.

Martini Meter 4/5
A successful pairing of local gin (MeMo, a classic London dry) with German vermouth (Balthazar), meticulously prepared and well chilled, $20.

Go-to bar snack Kolokithokeftedes, served with tzatziki, $11.

Continue this series

Melbourne bar reviews
Up next
The bloody mary (left) and celery seed martini.

Is this Melbourne's best bloody mary?

You get a history lesson and a magic show at the Dinner by Heston Blumenthal bar.

Romantica pizza with passata, fior di latte and basil with optional 'nduja.

Bar Romantica keeps the romance alive

The open-late Brunswick East bar is back and better than ever.

Previous
Nonna's meatballs are served with or without pasta.

Nonna's meatballs and negronis at Sig. Enzo Aperitivo Bar

If a neighbourhood bar scorecard existed, Brunswick's family-run Italian would tick many boxes.

See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement

Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/lay-low-review-20180906-h1508a.html