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Southern Thai food rules at the second restaurant by the Soi 38 team, found just opposite Melbourne Central station. Find comfort in crab fried rice and hokkien mee noodles, vibrant texture and colour in salads such as khao yum, and deeply savoury flavours in kanom jeen, the curry and rice noodle dish that’s a hallmark of coastal Thai cooking.

The long dinner menu is full of complementary dishes to be eaten banquet-style. There’s whole deep-fried pomfret, stir-fried cabbage with plump dried shrimp sourced especially from Thailand, and aromatic soups. Curries are a focus, with six choices ranging from “really intense” to “really light” but all of them emphasise fresh seafood.

Drinkswise, you can get Thai milk tea and thirst-quenchers like a lime drink with butterfly pea flower extract.

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