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The progression may seem familiar: butter-soft bluefin tuna; Hokkaido scallop made lively with bitter shiso; kombu-cured King George whiting served with a whisper of wasabi. All carefully laid over orbs of fluffy-but-firm rice, and all served raw – unless touched briefly by blowtorch. But there are singular jewels to be savoured.

Plump scampi comes scattered with a confetti of mullet roe and lime zest. Unagi (freshwater eel) is brushed with a sticky-sweet eel bone sauce then hibachi-grilled, delivered in a nori taco. Flounder fin is scored with precision and practically dissolves on the tongue.

Servers lay low but are never far away, occasionally appearing from the room’s contours to pour sake or offer extra courses. End on a triple-threat of grapefruit granita with rice cream and hojicha jelly. On weekends, there’s less sushi and more luxurious ingredients.