In a city where wine bars almost outnumber streetlights, those in the know make for the warm glow of The Moon. Some grab a bottle of something thoughtful for the road. Others settle into one of the neighbourhood’s most appealing concrete fit-outs, poring over the bulletproof menu.

The kitchen crew, led by class-act executive chef Charley Snadden-Wilson (also of Clover), has no business blowing minds with chickpeas, yet they insist on doing just that: delivering them in a singular world of flavour, girt by lardons.

A seafood escabeche is smooth, smoky genius, just the right canvas for foraged samphire, while snapper sings in a bracing eel broth. Strictly snacking? Order the potato doughnut with bottarga and brace for happy, salty tears.