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For chef Yong Hyun (Sushi On Kew)’s second venue in the heart of the city, he’s serving quick weekday lunches in a bright and calming 50-seat space with a minimalistic fitout of plywood, textured walls and orb-like pendant lights.

Sushi On Little Bourke is at the base of the revamped 500 Bourke building (also home to Silk Spoon and MoVida Aqui) and specialises in a rarely seen sushi called hako, made using a wooden mould that compresses rice, fish and garnishes into a neat rectangular block that can easily be sliced into pieces.

Among the seven toppings on the hako sushi, there’s torched scallop with yuzu pepper; jalapeno and mayo; paradise prawn with nori mayo and rice cracker; and avocado, tofu miso and sesame for vegetarians.

There are also Japanese sandos, four hot dishes and a few snacks, plus oysters, sake, beer and a brief wine list for the business lunch set. The dinner menu omits the sandos and adds sashimi and more mains, including scotch fillet with soy-based steak sauce, tofu-sesame sauce, and charred lemon.