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It’s hard to picture this room one year ago as muted and minimalist Igni, the fire driven fine diner led by couple Aaron Turner and Joanna Smith. Today, pink chairs with red seat cushions, turquoise tablecloths in tropical print, and rainbow-like clusters of flowers bring a whole new energy. Not that it’s chaotic.

Polished service means glasses are kept topped up, most likely with low intervention wines that can handle the electrifying pops of acid, sweetness and funk in northern Thai dishes. Chilli heat is gentle by default, but you can always ask to dial it up.

Duck larb’s sour tamarind edge is tempered by green mango and lettuce leaf wraps. Isan-style pork sausage packed with galangal and lemongrass is best appreciated piece by lacquered piece, and scorched mushrooms tumbled with mint and coriander show the kitchen can still play with fire.