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The fitout is immediately arresting. By restaurateur Scott Pickett, Smith St Bistrot has curved burgundy-leather banquettes, lavish chandeliers and bespoke wrought iron details throughout. The Gallic sensibility continues on the food front.

Pert grilled scallops rest on artichoke cream with frizzled saltbush leaves, and bouillabaisse sees Humpty Doo barramundi teamed with saffron-spiked shellfish broth. Duck breast is a crimson vision, served atop sweet-sour red cabbage with a scoop of beetroot puree.

Next, segue to a duo of raspberry souffle and sorbet. A team of swift and discreet servers keep things humming along, always at the ready to play their part in this fun French reverie.