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When the going gets tough, the tough make corn dogs. Owner-chef Shannon Martinez saw cost-of-living pressure hit regulars and switched from fine dining to something more accessible and fun.

Her industrial-chic temple to alt-meat still has an open kitchen, and still sports gold, marble and wood accents. But the set menu is out and nostalgic snacks are in. Those corn dogs are tofu-based, with a carnivalesque squiggle of tangy curry ketchup. Sauerkraut dim sims, rich with ginger and topped with fermented chilli, give South Melbourne’s a run for their money.

Soft polenta with chickpeas and braised cime di rapa is pure lemon scented comfort, finished with a clever coconut-based parmesan. Tattooed, neon haired staff handle the heaving room with positivity and pep, all too happy to lean into this brave new iteration of a vegan stalwart.