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Public Wine Shop

Eclectic natural vino in a primo location.

Minimalist snacks.
1 / 7Minimalist snacks.Eddie Jim.
Inside the intimate 20-seater.
2 / 7Inside the intimate 20-seater.Annika Kafcaloudis
Tinned garfish.
3 / 7Tinned garfish.Eddie Jim
Crab tart.
4 / 7Crab tart.Gemima Cody
Ouefs mayonnaise.
5 / 7Ouefs mayonnaise.Eddie Jim
Loafer bread and cultured Gippsland Jersey butter.
6 / 7Loafer bread and cultured Gippsland Jersey butter.Eddie Jim
The bar focuses on natural wines.
7 / 7The bar focuses on natural wines.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

When is an oeuf enough? The oeufs mayonnaise at this new wave wine bar hold some clues: soft-yolked eggs cloaked in vinegary mayo and flecked with trout roe and chives. They arrive with a hunk of Loafer bread and cultured Gippsland Jersey butter so pungent, it nearly upstages the overachieving eggs.

But this room – with its communal table, vintage lamps and ’70s soul records – isn’t just for girl dinner. There’s also eggplant, steamed until impossibly sweet, adrift in lemon-laced oil and punctuated by tangy feta. Ruby and gold jewels of Day’s Walk Farm beetroot tucked under candy-striped radicchio. And prawns basking in a pool of toasty, near-neon ’nduja and shellfish butter.

All this from a one-hob kitchen in the back corner, a set-up as lo-fi as the responsibly produced wines displayed in a kaleidoscope of styles and colours.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/public-wine-shop-20240411-p5fj46.html