Public Wine Shop
Eclectic natural vino in a primo location.
15/20
Contemporary$$
When is an oeuf enough? The oeufs mayonnaise at this new wave wine bar hold some clues: soft-yolked eggs cloaked in vinegary mayo and flecked with trout roe and chives. They arrive with a hunk of Loafer bread and cultured Gippsland Jersey butter so pungent, it nearly upstages the overachieving eggs.
But this room – with its communal table, vintage lamps and ’70s soul records – isn’t just for girl dinner. There’s also eggplant, steamed until impossibly sweet, adrift in lemon-laced oil and punctuated by tangy feta. Ruby and gold jewels of Day’s Walk Farm beetroot tucked under candy-striped radicchio. And prawns basking in a pool of toasty, near-neon ’nduja and shellfish butter.
All this from a one-hob kitchen in the back corner, a set-up as lo-fi as the responsibly produced wines displayed in a kaleidoscope of styles and colours.
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/public-wine-shop-20240411-p5fj46.html