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Is there any other venue that shifts from morning to night as seamlessly as this enduring hotspot? Whether you’re starting the day with the king of all anchovy toasts (a serious feat in a city overrun with the salty snack) or ending it by candlelight with a procession of bang-on, produce-focused plates, chef Steve Harry’s timeless, quietly confident menu nails the brief.

Abrolhos Island scallop tartare with fermented tomatillo and spicy pickled pepper brings new meaning to the word zing, as does raw albacore tuna in a bright lemon-wasabi oil. Handmade tortellini encase sweet beets and potato, joined by a zesty butter sauce made to be mopped up with focaccia.

Wine, like the food, keeps intervention minimal, and adjoining accommodation is full of thoughtful touches. There’s no better place to be as the sun comes up or goes down.