Some dumpling joints are defined by chaos and lively clatter. This Little Malop Street newbie – more a chic bar than a restaurant – is restrained, refined and intimate.

Amid curved concrete walls and low lighting, you feel as if you’re peering down a tunnel, only here, there’s delicate prawn har gao at the end.

Dumplings in serves of four or eight are made with impressive focus in a tiny kitchen at the end of the bar. Wagyu, fragrant with star anise, fills chiffon-thin steamed wrappers. Xiao long bao pop with a shot of sweet broth, while the pan-fried underbelly of pork pot stickers delivers satisfying crunch.

You could add small dishes, such as cured salmon zippy with spring onion oil, but the dumplings are the prize, burnished by on-theme cocktails such as shiso gimlets.