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Don’t be intimidated by the long menu: there are no wrong moves here, and plenty of rare treats.

Skip regular goi cuon (rice paper rolls) in favour of banh trang bo. The crisped, rolled, shrimp-flavoured rice paper comes filled with cottony pork floss, fried shallots and butter mayo, chopped into impeccable sweet-savoury bites.

Struggling to decide on a main? Hedge your bets with com am phu. The Hue-style claypot rice arrives on a tin platter with four sides: spicy candied freshwater crab, pickled mustard greens with baby eggplant, fluffy omelette, and pork belly braised with shrimp. The Hanoi speciality cha ca la vong is a 150-year-old recipe of fish grilled with turmeric and dill that has a fascinating anti-colonial history.

There’s also iced coffee crowned with salted heavy cream, but drinker beware: the only bathrooms are in the shopping mall next door.