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There’s nothing basic about brunch here. Smoky eggplant plays off the gentle acidity of whey in the dip kashke bademjan. A nest of thinner-than-shoestring fries tops gheymeh, the nourishing Persian lamb and lentil stew. Pearls of pomegranate elevate humble tomato and cucumber in Shirazi salad, and stacks of toasty lavash mop up every last speck on handmade ceramic plates.

Many dishes do double duty on the evening banquet menu, when you can also BYO or order a sour-cherry vodka cocktail. These touches speak to owner Hamed Allahyari’s inclusive ethos.

Founded seven years after his arrival in Melbourne via immigration detention on Christmas Island, today it’s a registered charity and social enterprise. Allahyari created the venue to provide employment and training for refugees in the hope that other new arrivals might receive a more welcoming start than he did.

Cafe Sunshine & SalamaTea has since moved into the space where Allahyari’s latest venture, Persian kabab store Kababi is located. The venue operates as SalamaTea by day and Kababi by night.