Sean’s Panaroma celebrated its 20th birthday in 2013, but its charm is ageless. Or has fashion caught up with this Bondi original? There’s Sean Moran’s produce fanaticism, the endearing lack of pretension in the retro beach shack design, and the disarmingly simple approach to menu composition. ‘Spelt, zucchini, pistachio’ is shorthand for the rustic charm of elastic spelt noodles with baby zucchini flowers and the ripe funk of goat’s curd. The restrained elegance of a silken cucumber soup with cucumber jelly and samphire holds up the other end of the spectrum, with plump Sydney rock oysters in the briny depths. The selection is small – four entrees and four mains – but every one nails the unfussed brief, such as roasted duck with grilled nectarine and the bitter edge of endive. Finish with a gloopily indulgent trifle of chocolate mousse, dessert wine-soaked sponge, hazelnut cream and poached cherries. Waiters dress their sharpness in cosseting warmth – all part of the homey charm of this beach side gem.