Josh and Julie Niland want us to eat more fish, so there isn’t a skerrick of meat on the menu of their blond, minimalist, north shore bistro. Instead, fish is treated as if it were meat. Take the Mooloolaba yellowfin tuna châteaubriand with garlicky greens, sauce Bearnaise and shoestring fries. Or the way in which coral trout channels roasted pork belly – the chef’s signature dry-ageing turning the skin into crackling that actually crackles, over flesh that’s pale and tender. Raw fish is a high point, treated with precision in sashimi-style yellowfin tuna, or carpaccio-like slashes of leaping bonito. Fleshy Jervis Bay mussels swimming in a fruity, annatto seed vinaigrette is a flavour blast, and Julie Niland’s chocolate, rum and raisin tart reappears as the catch of the day. A dining experience that will have you thinking and talking, as well as eating.