The Waratah in Darlinghurst is a new bar and dining room feeding Sydney’s voracious appetite for nostalgia. From colourful fairy bread-inspired ice-cream sandwiches to fully loaded Aussie burgers, the menu is awash with childhood party classics made more grown-up through the use of Indigenous ingredients, alongside ice-cold Daintree forest-inspired cocktails.

The homage to Australiana opened to a big crowd on December 6, buoyed by its association with two-hatted Bondi restaurant Icebergs Dining Room & Bar. Icebergs’ head chef Alex Prichard worked alongside former colleague and Waratah head chef Lewin White to design the culinary concept.

Equal care has been given to the drinks offering, spearheaded by 2021 World Class Bartender Evan Stroeve (ex-RE in Eveleigh). Stroeve co-owns The Waratah alongside Cynthia Litster as part of the newly formed Pollen Hospitality group.

It’s a beautiful (but narrow) two-storey space that combines the charm of a yesteryear pub with the earthy tones and fluid lines of the Australian landscape. At street level, the mood is fun and casual. It’s walk-in only, with most of the seating confined to a long, hardwood bar and a smattering of small outdoor tables. The vibes are good, but the dine-in menu is limited. So if you’re hungry, head upstairs.

You have two options at the top of the stairs (and fingers crossed you remembered to make a booking – it’s busy). To your left, there’s a rooftop terrace, bathed in natural light (hello, well-lit Instagram photos) with plush banquette seating. It’s partially enclosed, with a louvred ceiling and wrap-around glass windows (more weatherproof than the typical rooftop seating, for those unsure of which tables to reserve online).

To your right is the main dining room with six seats at the bar, comfy corner tables nestled around the perimeter, and doors leading to a breezy, wrap-around verandah. It’s all soft sages and deep maroons, a calming interior amped up by the constant flow of well-dressed wait staff and loud R&B music.

What to eat

If you love a pun, the menu features sea scallops on top of potato scallops ($15). But honestly, the dish doesn’t hit as hard as the butterflied king prawns slathered in lemon myrtle butter ($30), or the exceptionally tender smoked pork cheek skewers ($17) – go easy on the mustard.

There’s also a bougie play on fish and chips which looks fantastic: raw albacore tuna with pickled rose petals, finger lime and crisps ($23). But be mindful of snacks priced per person or per item – it can be disappointing to be served a single thumb-sized jamon and cheese croquette for $6, regardless of how tasty the accompanying green tomato chutney is.

The must-order item is undoubtedly the Waratah burger with the lot ($23). An ode to the Aussie burger of yore, this beauty is stacked high with beetroot, bacon, a perfectly fried egg, lettuce, tomato, cheese and a thick Angus beef patty.

What to drink

The cocktail list is where it’s at. The bartenders go all-out with visually spectacular and unusual concoctions. Each season they’ll focus on a different region of Australia, and right now, the list is inspired by Queensland produce.

The strawberries and vanilla cocktail ($23) is refreshing and subtly sweet, a blend of whiskey, strawberries, Daintree vanilla, apricot and cream soda, but it was hard to pick between that and the raspberry and tea ($24) with tequila, native raspberries, blood lime, Daintree tea, saffron and egg whites.

Who to go with, and where to sit

The different spaces within The Waratah make it a versatile choice, whether you’re there for an intimate date night on the verandah; a boozy lunch with friends on the rooftop terrace; an afterwork tipple with colleagues at the public bar; or a weeknight dinner with Mum and Dad in the upstairs interior dining room (where you’re better off avoiding bar seating, if they’re averse to talking over music). Choose your own adventure.

Pro tip

If you’re desperate to sink your teeth into that fairy bread ice-cream sandwich, order it at the same time as you order the mains. The kitchen is still honing its systems.

Open Wed-Fri 4pm-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-10pm.

308-310 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst, thewaratahsydney.com