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Buttery battle royale takes shape in Sydney’s CBD as heavyweight croissant contender Loulou moves in

Milsons Point’s Loulou Bistro reveals its miniature spin-off above Martin Place metro station, just around the corner from Lune Croissanterie.

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

A small yet sweet CBD spin-off of the Loulou brand, launched at Milsons Point in 2021, opens on Monday, February 10.

The arrival of Petit Loulou has garnered attention given its proximity to the recently opened Elizabeth Street outlet of Melbourne import Lune Croissanterie. The New York Times named Lune as home to possibly the finest croissants in the world.

Loulou’s boulangerie-style croissants are made with a sourdough starter, says Sebastien Lutaud of Etymon Projects.
1 / 14Loulou’s boulangerie-style croissants are made with a sourdough starter, says Sebastien Lutaud of Etymon Projects.James Brickwood
Cinnamon croissant.
2 / 14Cinnamon croissant.James Brickwood
Croque monsieur.
3 / 14Croque monsieur.James Brickwood
Snail pastry.
4 / 14Snail pastry.James Brickwood
Lemon and raspberry eclair.
5 / 14Lemon and raspberry eclair.James Brickwood
6 / 14 James Brickwood
7 / 14 James Brickwood
8 / 14 James Brickwood
Jambon beurre gruyere baguette.
9 / 14Jambon beurre gruyere baguette.James Brickwood
10 / 14 James Brickwood
Blueberry and cassis tart with pain Suisse.
11 / 14Blueberry and cassis tart with pain Suisse.James Brickwood
12 / 14 James Brickwood
13 / 14 James Brickwood
14 / 14 James Brickwood

Sebastien Lutaud, culinary director at Loulou’s owner Etymon Projects, is keen to downplay a heavyweight fight between croissant neighbours, by complimenting Lune’s croissants and pointing to Petit Loulou’s different approach.

“Our croissants are very different,” Lutaud said. “In France, there are two types of croissant. Patisserie-style croissants, which use yeast. Petit Loulou is a boulangerie-style croissant made with a sourdough starter. It’s different — a bit more sour.”

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“I do think [Loulou head baker] Brendon Woodward makes the best croissant in Sydney.”

Photo: James Brickwood

Petit Loulou will roll out almond croissants from time to time as specials, or fill them with ham and cheese, but the focus is on croissants in their purest form.

“We want people to try our croissant [which cost $6], so we’re giving them away free this week when you buy a coffee. We’ll have 800 on the first day,” Lutaud says.

Located at 1 Elizabeth Street, right above the Martin Place metro station, Petit Loulou features a smart shopfront interior of light blue tiles and brass shelving. As the name suggests, it’s small at just 25 square metres.

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Sydneysiders don’t live on croissants alone, so the new arrival will kick-start with an opening week line-up of petite tarts, pain au chocolate, sausage rolls, caramelised onion and cheese twists, and even a nicoise salad. Petit Loulou fills its baguettes with rotisserie chicken and a simple but delicious ham and cheese option.

Cinnamon croissant.
Cinnamon croissant.James Brickwood

The Martin Place venue will copy the multi-pronged approach of its Milsons Point mothership, which mixes bistro, boulangerie and traiteur. In March, the 130-seat Loulou Bistro and Bar will open next door to Petit Loulou.

One level of the new bistro will look out over Elizabeth Street, the other toward the escalators at the entrance to the Martin Place metro station.

‘Our croissants are very different.’
Sebastien Lutaud, Etymon Projects
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Lutaud recently returned from France, where he found much of the food heavy. “Our approach is lighter, less cream, a bit more modern,” he says.

After years in France, observing the effect of train movements on the ebb and flow of the restaurant businesses, Lutaud believes Sydney’s new transport line has brought a fresh energy to the upper slopes of Martin Place.

Lemon and raspberry eclair.
Lemon and raspberry eclair.James Brickwood

It’s reflected in a rash of openings, ranging from luxe mega-venue The International to incoming cult burger brand Five Guys, slated to open in coming months on the metro’s doorstep.

“We want to offer Sydney locals an authentic French experience,” says Loulou head baker Brendon Woodward. “Our ethos is to share the joy of traditional French baking with the city, and what better way to celebrate the opening of our new CBD location than by introducing them to the essence of Loulou through our signature croissants.”

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/buttery-battle-royale-takes-shape-in-sydney-s-cbd-as-heavyweight-croissant-contender-loulou-moves-in-20250206-p5la3f.html