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This lively fish restaurant sparkles with oceanic brilliance, but as easy as it would be to play things straight, it’s a worldly affair. Snacks could include tapas-style garlic and chilli prawns, just opaque and topped with coriander-laced salsa verde, before you’re eye-to-eye with crisp-fried whole snapper bathed in a bright, rich Thai red curry sauce.

And then there’s dessert, when you might catch a glimpse of chef Arkin Barretto’s Filipino heritage in the icy halo-halo laden with coconut granita, caramelised banana and luminous ube ice-cream.

It also pays to take cues from regulars who consistently fill the homely dining room: those warm, airy crumpets, piped with smoked trout and eel mousse and capped with a wave of katsuobushi are a must. Service is boisterous, the menu diverse – no wonder locals school here.