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Fabio Battisti and Arnolfo Raimondi opened this cafe, deli and restaurant at the western edge of Pyrmont where you wouldn’t usually expect to find a sandwich stacked with juicy slices of porchetta, frazzled crackling and sauteed leaves of scarola.

The courtyard is often packed with Italians dressed like they’re about to go yachting in Campania, knocking back blistered flatbread sandwiches, espresso and cream-filled maritozzi buns. They’re also here for the house-made guanciale; gnarly slabs of the cured pork jowl hang behind the deli counter, ready for their close-up in a properly creamy (but cream-less) spaghetti carbonara or all’amatriciana.

Meanwhile, trippa alla Romana boasts submissive strips of honeycomb ox-tripe in a fruity, pecorino-enriched tomato sauce and chargrilled steaks feature many barnstorming hunks of meat, pasture-raised and dry-aged for long, buttery flavour. Kudos, Battisti and Raimondi. Jacks of all trades, masters of salumi.