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An ice-cold Japanese Slipper. Yellowfin tuna sashimi laid over a crisp tortilla-like base with pops of tobiko, jalapeno salsa, spring onion and nori. Hawkesbury squid, grilled hard, cut into ribbons, tossed through luxurious kosho butter and brightened with finger lime. Ren Ishii is nothing if not refreshing, and everyone and we mean everyone – is here for it.

Dark tables pack in old friends and couples as readily as they do groups of teens and twenty-somethings here for a big night out. They’re well catered for, staff steering diners to their favourites, recommending drinks from a list packing in Japanese grape varieties among organic Adelaide Hills wines by the glass, and working the room cheerily as it thrums through the night.

This is definitely a local favourite but a glance at the specials (Ora King salmon dumplings, say, or salt and pepper quail) tells you there’s more going on under the surface.