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This breezy Mediterranean-inspired dining room might boast postcard views of Wategos Beach, but it’s all eyes inside when the “cornetto” hits the table – a crisp brik pastry cone hiding cultured dashi cream, cured egg yolk and pops of smoked salmon roe.

Chef Jason Saxby and Raes’ eternally hospitable team also command attention by drawing the best from Australian ingredients, such as chilli-glazed Moreton Bay bug curled around fregola risotto humming with a native-spice curry, or duck breast dusted in powdered Davidson’s plum and sitting on fragrant rosella jus.

An international wine list highlights sustainability, but the temptation to kick things off with a mezcal and paprika-spiked sangrita shouldn’t be ignored.

Saxby’s showmanship culminates in a tribute to the Iced VoVo: a vanilla ice-cream sandwich rippled with pink marshmallow, coconut and tart plum jam. Alright, now can you shift your focus back to the beach.