Lynch’s Narooma

Cold beer, air-conditioning and Australian-Chinese meals.

November 11, 2024

1 / 4Lynch’s Narooma is housed in a heritage hotel.supplied

2 / 4Out the front of Lynch’s, Narooma. Supplied

4 / 4A range of classic brews are available on tap.Supplied

Critics' Pick

Pub dining$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

When word came through that Sydney hospitality giant Merivale was taking the keys to dinky-di heritage pub Lynch’s, Narooma-ites feared the worst. Or at least they feared the old boozer would become a house of rosé and overpriced spritzes. Mercifully, that hasn’t happened.

The ancient marlin head still hangs above the bar, and the walls are still adorned with darts and weathered photos of the region and its families. There’s no fussy share plates here either, just classics done right, such as a whopping parmigiana, lamb shoulder with assertive salsa verde, and local fish and leek pie.

Well-rested rib-eye comes with bright, minted peas and roast chicken gravy, and a side of mac-and-three-cheese with bacon is so big it could be dinner in itself. While nearby Queen Chow is closed for renovations, a few of its Cantonese signatures pop up here. Prawn toast and cold Tooheys for the win.