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If salt-and-pepper squid has suffered from overexposure, let’s talk hot-butter cuttlefish. Tender flesh with just a little snap. The fragrance of banana chillies and shallots, and addictive spicy butter that leaves your tongue tingling.

Every dish is a celebration of spices at O Tama Carey’s teensy restaurant. Depth and complexity are in abundance, whether in playful snacks, such as betel leaves shipping roasted crab, chilli sambol and lime, or rich curries ordered from a tick-a-box menu.

And while you don’t need to love chilli to eat here, it certainly helps; when the menu says it’s hot, it means it. Relief comes in the form of comforting parippu coconut-milk dhal, or creamy cashew curry driven by a restrained white curry powder.

Hoppers are a must on weekends, best torn by hand for swiping through every dish. Still sweating? Rose-flavoured faluda and lo-fi wines are on hand.