Gwylo

A cross-cultural mash-up that leaves locals buzzing.

November 11, 2024

1 / 9Gwylo restaurant in Mollymook serves dishes inspired by Asian street eats.Supplied

3 / 9Duck leg with sour curry and pumpkin. Peter Izzard

4 / 9Miso potato with spiced gravy, prawns and chives.Aleksandra Moszumanska

5 / 9Gwylo restaurant in Mollymook.Peter Izzard

6 / 9Miang kham with a spicy mix of prawns, jicama, coconut and peanuts.Peter Izzard

7 / 9Bao bun with pork, Davidson plum and kimchi. Peter Izzard

8 / 9Pandan sponge with palm sugar. Peter Izzard

9 / 9Crispy mee goreng with potato, cashew cream and mushroom dashi. Peter Izzard

14.5/20

Modern Asian$$

It’s not often you find yourself biting into a snack, in this case a version of Malaysian murtabak consisting of roti stuffed with kangaroo rendang and cucumber yoghurt, and turning to the stranger beside you to gush about how great it is.

Maybe you’re caught up in the chatty atmosphere. Perhaps it’s because you’ve scored a bar seat that puts you in direct range of the staff ’s banter. Or maybe it’s just because the “murtabak” – flaky and deeply savoury – is outstanding. What is certain is that scoring a seat at Gwylo (seldom easy at peak times) feels like being invited to a welcoming dinner party.

A pile of crispy, coconutty Thai-style chicken keeps the good times going, as does a charry, sticky vegan char kwai teow rightly scorched by the wok. Order another fruit-driven cocktail and “cheers” your neighbour. Everyone’s friends here now.