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There’s garlic bread and then there’s Fontana’s garlic bread, perhaps Sydney’s G.G.B.O.A.T. It lands hot and oozing with glorious, caramelised garlic butter, ready to kick off your night with a glass of Sardinian orange wine or precision stirred martini.

Fontana marches to the sound of its own chilled beat with simple, assured cooking that feels just as at home in Redfern as it might in a natural-wine bar in Rome.

That garlic bread is the perfect vehicle for scooping just-set ricotta before moving on to luscious, rustic ceci e tria (Puglia’s signature chickpea pasta), back-fat-rich pork sausage, and spaghetti con le sarde – a punchy tumble of sardines, pine nuts, currants and anchovies.

The floor team is dependable and glasses are always full, right up to the towering puff of zabaglione cream to finish.