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Driving past the Arkadia apartment building – made with half-a-million recycled bricks in a nod to nearby Sydney Park’s historic brickworks – you’d never guess Ellen was on the other side.

A sun-filled industrial-looking space with pendant lights swaying in the breeze, an umbrella-shaded courtyard and a lawn to lie on until a table is free, Ellen attracts locals for its aesthetic and its tone alone. But it’s this cafe’s relaxed yet high-end cooking that’s the biggest drawcard.

Charred Bangalow pork loin, for instance, blushing pink and crisp-edged, topped with herby apple and a pile of fennel greens. Then there’s the crumbed fish burger with pickles, lettuce, American cheese and mustard seeds – crisp, soft and beautifully crunchy. Shoestring fries come dusted with nori salt, there’s a clipped list of wine and beer, and if it’s not a house-roasted espresso to finish, the promise of sweet custard in coffee syrup seals it.