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Duck in Heaven

Bird is very much the word at this impressive no-frills newcomer.

14.5/20

Chinese$

The name alone should clue you in: expect duck – and lots of it. Stuffed into spring rolls, laid onto pancakes, stirred through soups or simply served over precision-cooked rice.

The dishes on owner-chef Jeni Sae-Yang’s menu aren’t unfamiliar territory, but her cooking has an everything-from-scratch ethos and a lightness of touch that can make it seem as though you’re tasting them for the very first time.

Those tissue-thin Peking duck pancakes are a triumph, every bit by the book, and magnified by house plum sauce made bright with orange marmalade. Supple, slippery duck wontons taste like heightened versions of themselves in a remarkably pure 12-hour duck broth.

Noteworthy xiao long bao and ruggedly marbled char siu pork neck, meanwhile, prove there’s lots more in Sae-Yang’s arsenal, as do her dumpling classes and mahjong nights. One to set your sights on.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/duck-in-heaven-20241009-p5kh37.html