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Triple-digit steaks and salt-crusted snapper. Sharp martinis and big-name wine. When lunch on the Central Coast calls for dry-aged rib-eye and Bordeaux, Bells at Killcare has the luxury you’re looking for.

After a few chef changes over the past few years, Cameron Cansdell has returned to helm the boutique hotel’s Wild Flower dining room, and there’s a marked improvement in both food and service. It’s not all beef and merlot either.

Coastal blue-on-white interiors – complete with an ice-filled marble sink to display whole fish – is also conducive to vibrant Mediterranean-style things, such as spaghetti alle vongole ramped up with sea urchin butter, and brick-red bouillabaisse that doesn’t skimp on the king prawns.

Fat and juicy quail cops a nice whack of Sichuan spice, and a more reasonably priced rump cap comes enriched with a sticky glaze made of chicken bones. It’s good to have Bells back in the game.