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This wine bar and bottle shop in Merimbula’s town centre may not boast any waterside cachet, but it sure is handsome: a narrow room flanked by spotted gum, wildflowers, retail shelves and many vinyl records.

Meanwhile, co-owner Ryde Pennefather stokes the hibachi, grills local seafood and spins anything from A Tribe Called Quest to Orville Peck.

Charcuterie, cheese and tinned fish make up the daily deli offering, while a longer bistro menu is the drawcard on weekends, headlined by steak draped in smoked anchovy butter and escorted by salty fries.

Calamari and guanciale skewers are slick with herby salmoriglio; coal blistered garfish comes in a pool of confident beurre blanc; and a liberal dash of Espelette pepper fires up poached Balmain bugs with snappy local beans and kohlrabi remoulade.

We’ll be back – often – to get across the wide-ranging selection of natural-ish wine, and another round with a heroic wedge of Basque cheesecake.