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An unofficial rule to live by: when you see a long line on Illawarra Road, join the queue. This bustling spot is a case in point, and the four dishes offered tend to sell out regularly.

On almost every table, you’ll find banh cuon – northern Vietnam’s steamed rice noodle rolls dotted with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms. Team them with fresh herbs and your choice of grilled meat or cha (hunky, aromatic slices of sausage) and dip everything in a punchy nuoc mam.

Mixed and grilled pork is the best of both worlds, while the beef with fresh onion option is highly refreshing on a hot afternoon.

Other menu items are far from support acts, though, especially a rich and nourishing chao ga, each bite of the rice porridge loaded with free-range chook, chopped cruller, minced pork, fried shallots and coriander.

Come early and come hungry.