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This newcomer on Redfern’s main drag has quickly become the suburb’s most popular spot for second dates, Italian grapes, pasta and cured meat. And not just any cured meat – Tony Soprano’s favourite, gabagool! Grab a spot at the spacious warm-lit bar, order a big plate of the salumi, and you’re away.

There’s personality in spades, from a Crown Lager cameo on the excellent nebbiolo-championing wine list, informed staff happy to talk you through said drinks, and a menu blending Italy and France with a bit of Aussie nostalgia (we’re particularly fond of the steak diane and hand-cut frites).

Mandilli di seta – aka silk-handkerchief pasta – punches with anchovy, butter and saffron; ribbon-thin slices of beef tongue practically vibrate with flavour thanks to an oil rich mix of garlic, ginger and chilli salted for a fortnight; and there’s a slab of sticky-date cake thicker than a large-print edition Tolstoy.

Attenzione, you have our attention.