Is it a bar with great food, or a restaurant with exceptional booze? A bit of both, really. Owner Matt Young imports sake, so everything is available by the glass, making it a good spot to take a deep dive into the nuanced world of junmai (“pure rice”) brews. Don’t sleep on the cocktails either. Meanwhile, Young’s drinks are enhanced by a serious record collection and creative snacks and share plates by chef Jemma Whiteman. (We would say “book ahead” but it’s walk-ins only.)

• As featured in Sydney’s best bars