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Allta, which offers a four-hour tasting menu of “elevated Korean gastronomy”, is Sydney’s most expensive new restaurant. How expensive? Try $325 per guest. But it’s also one of the most singular and fun.

There’s jazz, marble and well-cushioned chairs, and the show starts when the psychedelic West African funk kicks in and three “snacks” arrive from the hands of Jung-Su Chang, a former executive chef at acclaimed Seoul fine diner Jungsik.

Best of the bunch is naengchae, a crunchy bundle of nashi, carrot and cucumber tied with a supernaturally smooth knot of confit egg yolk. Pounded scampi is stretched across pickled capsicum with wild perilla-seed oil; wagyu tenderloin is laid over ponzu-poached seaweed with a thick burnt-butter sauce; an ornate puck of ginseng and white-chocolate mousse is doused in tart apple consomme.

It’s highly delicious stuff, with engaged service and excellent wines to boot. One to watch and then some.