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In an outer northern suburban carpark, between a carwash and a furniture store, a Turkish restaurant run entirely by women is a warm and efficient community hub. One Stop has it all: tea and eggs in the morning, tradie kebabs and gozleme in the afternoon, rice pudding and sturdy coffee for families late into the evening. Like many of the best places, it sprang from urgent desire.

Owner Hacer Temel told me the story. About 14 years ago, she and her husband Adil were in Istikbal, the next-door store where they sell sofa beds and dining settings from Turkey. “We have nowhere to have a coffee, slow down, sit after work,” Adil pointed out. So he started building, turning a storeroom into a little cafe.

Over the years, that snackery has grown into a 170-seat destination with a sheltered terrace, indoor dining room, fierce charcoal grill, Muslim prayer room and an extensive Turkish menu on which everything is made from scratch by Hacer and her home-cook friends. It’s halal, so there’s no alcohol.

Brunch is especially fun. Multi-generational groups fill the tables for shared platters of cheese, sausage and olives, freshly made gozleme, baskets of warm Turkish bread and various egg dishes, maybe menemen, a creamy scramble with peppers, or folded eggs studded with sucuk, a piquant beef salami.

The burbling hero of every table is a double-decker samovar of tea, placed over a fuel burner with tea atop and water below. It’s an event as well as a beverage, and ensures the tea leaves don’t overheat and become bitter.

For solos and smaller groups, there are plenty of generous ways to start your day for around $15.

It’s home-style Turkish fare for the most part. There are soups – tripe, lentil or lamb served with vinegar and lemon for self seasoning – and stews, including Hacer’s favourite kavourma, a diced chicken or lamb braise with mushroom.

Manti – tiny lamb dumplings – are made by deft fingers, then served with tomato ragu and garlicky yoghurt. Firm but juicy kofte are chargrilled and served with salad and a choice of dips (I love the carrot).

Desserts are made with the same pride as the savouries. If you like baklava, you need to know about katmer, a folded dough filled with pistachios.

Sweets need coffee. Espresso is available but a Turkish brewed coffee is probably the way to go. It’s made to your desired level of sweetness (medium for me) and served with a nubbin of Turkish delight and a glass of water so you can cleanse your palate before each sip.

You’d be unlikely to stumble upon One Stop Kebab but it’s a true find that allows anyone to access rich migrant culture. I’m grateful to Adil Temel for the idea and especially to Hacer’s adept squad of cooks and waiters for a tasty and authentic Turkish trip.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.