Banish any memories of an uninspiring hotel restaurant with meals to match. A marvellous makeover of this grand 1930s hotel has retained its Art Deco features, added whimsy, and divided the big room with geometric glass partitions to create a balance of spaciousness and intimacy and an ambience of muted opulence. Forget the drama of chef and key staff quitting soon after its 2012 relaunch - the Argus now offers a splendid dining experience. Chef David Willcocks's cutting-edge artistry can surprise and delight. Dinner may begin with a complimentary Japanese savoury custard in an eggshell, and finish with a chocolate 'pearl' hidden in a lidded oyster shell. Finely sliced, marinated scallops and truffle may, like petals, encircle a scoop of bloody mary sorbet. Rare-breed beef or lamb come with imaginative garnishes; vegetarian dishes marry colour, texture and flavour. Desserts? Perhaps a 'honey pot' with royal jelly, pollen and fruit; or fromage frais and berries with goat's milk ice-cream.