The anticipation builds as you queue on Mamasita's inconspicuous stairway on Collins Street, and it's rewarded in spades. In the intimate, dimly lit dining room, switched-on waiters purvey tangy sangria and obscure tequilas until late. The menu is refined street food- try tacos filled with plump prawns and creamy chipotle almond salsa, or crunchy round tostaditas with earthy black beans and fragrant epazote (a Mexican herb). Confit chicken maryland comes in rich mole sauce, a tongue-confounding blend of nuts, chilli, bittersweet chocolate and spices. Order wisely and you can still shimmy under a Cheap Eats budget. Mexican in Melbourne has found its mojo.