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Change is good, necessary, fun, scary and hard to get completely right. When Dr. Morse, a 12-year-old, all-day hangout under Victoria Park railway station, decided it was time to grow up a bit, its owners redecorated, updating “shabby share-house” to “mid-century uncle”, and employed the highly accomplished David Boyle as executive chef.

He now oversees the food across Northside Group, which includes Dr. Morse,
the massive Bodriggy Brewery Co across the road, Smith Street’s Albion Hotel, and Plug Nickel, a cool, Collingwood coffee-cocktail corner. Breakfast has been ditched, the wine list expanded and the new lunch and dinner offering pitched as “New York Italian-inspired bistro disco”, whatever that means.

I worry there’s a burger- or pizza-shaped hole in the menu. I hope I’m wrong.

I like what they’ve done with the place, but I wonder if it will be embraced by inner-city diners, mostly because the sprawling, old milk bar still feels like a pub with a front bar, dining room, enormous beer garden and a continuing focus on being a cool place to come for DJs and dancing, backed by a diverse roster of indie disc-spinners and musos.

Boogie sessions can’t be ballasted by chips alone, but dancers may not wish to pause to twirl a $32 clam pasta. I worry there’s a burger- or pizza-shaped hole in the menu. I hope I’m wrong. The service is friendly and keen, the retro dining area appeals with fireplaces, stripey carpet and cosy booths, and there’s good food backed by fresh tap beer, jaunty cocktails and enjoyable, mid-priced Italian-leaning wine.

Chef Boyle is from Ireland, but he gained a comprehensive understanding of local produce in his previous role as head chef across city restaurants Farmer’s Daughters and Victoria, which use only Victorian ingredients. He was among the first to cook with Meredith goat. Everyone’s favourite feta splurge owes thanks to Meredith Dairy’s girl goats. But what about the boys? The farm has recently started feeding them up and processing them on-site; the meat is delicious.

Boyle coaxes it with lemon, parsley, garlic and butter into a truly wonderful ragu for housemade tagliatelle, dyed green with parsley and spinach. Grass-fed beef isn’t as tender as its grain-fed counterpart, but it has more character.

This menu features three pastured steak cuts, all slathered with a flavoured butter strong on olives and capers. It’s a smart way to bring in acid and seasoning, but it drowned my rump cap, a great piece of meat from Gippsland’s
O’Connor Beef that doesn’t need cloaking.

The fava purée alongside is a hearty alternative to mash; pulses quicken my pulse, so I’m all for it. Same with the shaved prosciutto: served with pickled rockmelon compressed with chilli, its balance of salt, fat, sweet and spicy is exemplary.

There are signs that the Italian approach isn’t a natural fit, the most glaring being that the menu section headed “Primi” (“firsts” or entreés, and where the pasta should be) actually lists the secondi (“mains”). It doesn’t really matter – you’ll find your food – but it’s a sign that the team is reaching for a concept rather than inhabiting it. More vegetarian offerings and a stronger dessert list would also be welcome pointers that Dr. Morse is truly positioning itself as a dining destination. There’s plenty to like, but I don’t think it’s quite barrelling
down the home straight just yet.