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Sydney restaurant reviews 2022

Catch up on The Sydney Morning Herald chief restaurant critic Terry Durack's reviews.

37 stories
Sticky chicken wings are currently steamed and robata-grilled with house-made koji, yakitori-style.
14/20

Revenge of the 'burbs at Baba's Place

  • Terry Durack
Mini passionfruit madeleines.
14.5/20

Sydney's frou-frou-free Loulou is a flexible bistro for uncertain times

  • Terry Durack
Jane's pink cake.
Good Food hat15.5/20

Something old, something new at Jane in Surry Hills

  • Terry Durack
A faded Resch mural takes pride of place upstairs at Odd Culture Newtown.
14.5/20

Where the wild things are at Odd Culture Newtown

  • Terry Durack
CopperTree Farm dry-aged Friesan rib-eye.
13/20

Sydney's new Botswana Butchery has the steak, but has it got the sizzle?

  • Terry Durack
Isobel Little is in her first head chef role at LP's Quality Meats.
Good Food hat15/20

The future of LP's Quality Meats is most definitely female

  • Myffy Rigby
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Sticky aged pork surrounded by fresh Thai herbs and leaves.
Good Food hat15/20

Viand is one night in Bangkok, but in Woolloomooloo instead

  • Terry Durack
Lamb neck shawarma with tarator, pickles, chermoula and flatbread.
Good Food hat15.5/20

Don't miss the lamb at Sydney's ambitious Aalia

  • Terry Durack
IYKYK: the off-menu lobster rolls.
14/20

Manly's Banco is part old school and part gangsta

  • Terry Durack
Ravioli with ricotta, burnt leek and black garlic.
Good Food hat15/20

Civico 47 brings a new Italian accent to former Lucio's site in Paddington

  • Terry Durack
House-made pita with taramasalata.
14.5/20

Mykonos meets Bondi at new hotspot Topikos

  • Terry Durack
The 12-metre loop of halo lighting, blue velvet banquettes and distressed, charcoal-daubed walls at Soul Dining.
Good Food hat15/20

The heart and Seoul of Surry Hills

  • Terry Durack
Canberra restaurant Onzieme is like an Antipodean tribute to the funky Parisian wine bars of the 11th arrondissement.
Good Food hat15/20

Canberra's Onzieme dials the fun up to 11

  • Terry Durack
Gwylo is a cheerful little surprise packet of Asian fusion street eats and banging cocktails.
14/20

Mollymook, take a bao at Gwylo

  • Terry Durack
Caesar salad is tossed and dressed tableside, just as it was designed to be.
Good Food hat15/20

On with the show at the all-new Gowings in Sydney CBD

  • Terry Durack
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Go-to dish: Spanakopita-filled manti with dill, yoghurt and burnt butter.
14.5/20

Spanakopita meets dumplings at Ploos in Sydney

  • Terry Durack
Steak frites at Manon in Sydney.
14/20

So Frenchy, so classique: Manon in the Queen Victoria Building is bold as brasserie

  • Terry Durack
Silks at Barangaroo is completely over the top in its opulence, luxury ingredients and expense.
Good Food hat15/20

Canton palace delights at Silks, Crown Sydney, Barangaroo

  • Terry Durack
Sean's, Bondi Beach.
Good Food hatGood Food hat16/20

Sean's Bondi is Sydney's favourite farmhouse kitchen by the sea

  • Terry Durack
Bug, prawn and truffle dumplings.
14.5/20

Dumplings and truffles collide at Sydney's new Lotus outpost

  • Terry Durack
Kazan's interior mimics a traditional Japanese Noh theatre and is tucked away at 25 Martin Place (the old MLC Centre).
14/20

Staging a CBD revival at Kazan at 25 Martin Place

  • Terry Durack
Luke's Kitchen is a grand 1930s hotel restaurant pitched for business lunches and glitzy dinners at Kimpton Margot Sydney.
Good Food hat15/20

Grand hotel lobby dining at Luke's Kitchen on Pitt Street

  • Terry Durack
Tombik's vegie platter.
13.5/20

All-day kebabs go upmarket at Sydney's Tombik

  • Terry Durack
The tuna pizza is a clever kaleidoscope of colourful ingredients.
Good Food hat15/20

Raw ambition wins out at Ren Ishii in Ramsgate

  • Terry Durack
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Wood-roasted half duck with burnt butter and mandarin is the go-to dish (roast pumpkin with coriander oil also pictured, top right).
Good Food hat15/20

Hot oven, cool nights at Ates in Blackheath

  • Terry Durack
Lasagne spring roll stuffed with beef, mozzarella and tomato.
14/20

A nod to mod Italian at Enoteca Ponti in Potts Point

  • Terry Durack
Chicken empanadas.
14.5/20

St. Alma in Freshwater is more Mex than Tex

  • Terry Durack
Potato skordalia is a clever mix of flavours that are at once fresh but familiar.
14/20

Feel-good dining anyone can get behind at Massimo Bottura's Refettorio

  • Terry Durack
It's an instant tapas party, upstairs and down, at this reborn Enmore Road venue.
Good Food hat15/20

Join the Spanish party at Bar Louise in Enmore

  • Terry Durack
Rigatoni with a lamb ragu.
14.5/20

Sydney's Bar Grazie channels all our favourite Italian restaurants into one

  • Terry Durack
The dining room backdropped by the Sydney Opera House.
Good Food hat15/20

An Australian point of view at James Viles, Park Hyatt Sydney

  • Terry Durack
Everything at Passeggiata is familiar, but also special.
Good Food hat15/20

Italian you know and love at Passeggiata

  • Terry Durack
The Charles has been created in homage to the grand brasseries of Europe.
Good Food hat15/20

Making a grand entrance at The Charles Grand Brasserie and Bar

  • Terry Durack
Kiln's rooftop space offers rarely seen views across the back-end of the CBD and Surry Hills.
Good Food hat15.5/20

Kiln is hot, hyped and not your typical hotel restaurant, but is it ace?

  • Terry Durack
Nigiri sushi goes luxe at Toko.
14/20

Toko hits the spot and presses nostalgia buttons

  • Terry Durack
Firedoor is still about the grill and the skill, the science and the purity of intent; but there's more subtlety and nuance.
Good Food hatGood Food hatGood Food hat18/20

Restaurant of the Year review: Fine dining by fire at Firedoor

  • Terry Durack

Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/sydney-restaurant-reviews-2022-20220128-h21dxe.html