Courgette
15.5/20
Contemporary
The small touches matter at Courgette. Low-slung linen chairs greet guests who like to linger. A recent refurbishment has re-energised the intimate interior, which offers respite from Canberra’s office towers. The tables have been lowered specially to suit use of the elegantly long and slim cutlery. The food, too, benefits from a delicate touch. Little dollops of flavour grace every dish on the well-priced set menu. Buttons of sweet cauliflower puree sit next to seared scallops and crunchy fennel. Quail breast is artfully arranged with a cube of crisp, twice-cooked pork belly and tiny soy pearls. Chef James Mussillon’s food is fine without being too fancy, from punchy pink nuggets of Mandagery Creek venison, to Atlantic salmon topped with creamy smoked cod brandade. The service is precise but generous. So, too, is a sweet serve of chunks of elderflower sponge, lemon curd and basil-infused sorbet.
And … A cosy wine-cellar private dining room for small groups.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Fine food in an intimate city setting.
Best bit That it’s a Canberra fixture.
Worst bit The pink-and-purple panel by the front door.
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/eating-out/courgette-20141015-3i115.html