Lunch is an intimate affair at Rhubarb. The main dining room is closed off, leaving a banquette, tables and chairs to share space with the kitchen. You're close enough to hear the rattle of pans and interact with the kitchen brigade. Close your eyes and point a finger to any menu choice and you'll be happy. Owner-chef Josh Gamble packs flavour and panache into his French-themed choices. Slow-cooked duck and mushroom pie is a highlight, served pithivier style on a bed of sweet onion puree and sticky veal jus. Calvados cream sauce, red cabbage and prune compote marry perfectly well with pork belly hidden under a dome of golden crackle. Dessert is rave worthy; meringue roulade spiralled with berry mascarpone, served with berry compote and creme anglaise, is sweet but not cloying and further affirmation there is a depth of talent at the helm of this delightful suburban bistro.