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Fancy restaurants dine out on breaking everyday dishes into their constituent parts and reassembling them in novel ways. Matkim is no different. What is, though, is the source material. Few Sydney restaurants delve so deep into Korean cuisine to shed new light on traditional preparations.

There’s the hot-cold beef galbi, alternately grilled over coals and chilled on ice. There’s snacks of raw wagyu and octopus spooned into crisp nori (riffing on yukhoe tangtangi), whitebait fritters formed into tart shells (a spin on baengeopo), and squid-ink noodles sauced with gamtae, the lacy, delicious seaweed.

Early spring, meanwhile, sees a series of homestyle soups – chicken and ginseng samgyetang, say – reworked masterfully. Over 18 courses, for eight guests, chefs stoke the wood grill, pour wine and Korean liquor and describe techniques and dishes. The detail is striking, the tone warm. Keen? Book early, or miss out.