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Matkim

Intimate omakase blazes a trail for a new style of Korean dining.

Mackerel marinated in white kimchi.
1 / 6Mackerel marinated in white kimchi.Supplied
Whitebait tart shell with a surprise on top.
2 / 6Whitebait tart shell with a surprise on top.Supplied
Matkim is full of surprises.
3 / 6Matkim is full of surprises.Supplied
A fresh take on traditional techniques.
4 / 6A fresh take on traditional techniques.Supplied
Bite-sized and full of different flavours and textures.
5 / 6Bite-sized and full of different flavours and textures.Supplied
Fine dining in Circular Quay.
6 / 6Fine dining in Circular Quay.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Korean$$$$

Fancy restaurants dine out on breaking everyday dishes into their constituent parts and reassembling them in novel ways. Matkim is no different. What is, though, is the source material. Few Sydney restaurants delve so deep into Korean cuisine to shed new light on traditional preparations.

There’s the hot-cold beef galbi, alternately grilled over coals and chilled on ice. There’s snacks of raw wagyu and octopus spooned into crisp nori (riffing on yukhoe tangtangi), whitebait fritters formed into tart shells (a spin on baengeopo), and squid-ink noodles sauced with gamtae, the lacy, delicious seaweed.

Early spring, meanwhile, sees a series of homestyle soups – chicken and ginseng samgyetang, say – reworked masterfully. Over 18 courses, for eight guests, chefs stoke the wood grill, pour wine and Korean liquor and describe techniques and dishes. The detail is striking, the tone warm. Keen? Book early, or miss out.

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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5khkf