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While Flemington is home to more than one legendary laksa, the drawcard at M Yong Tofu is a choose-your-own-adventure noodle soup that always garners a lunchtime rush.

Select a curry, chicken or tom yum broth base and pick your preferred noodle. Then it’s time to peruse the epic selection of house-made tau foo, which translates to “stuffed tofu” but might take the form of bitter gourd filled with bouncy fish paste. Other Chinese-Malaysian showstoppers include yum ring chicken, stir-fried in a sticky sauce and ladled over a circular basket of fried taro.

Jiggly egg tofu is lightly seasoned with soy, topped with dried shrimp and paired to wok-kissed greens. It’s hard to order badly, but still worth getting recommendations from the charming Aunties who cruise coolly about the room, making this feel like a third space.