The menu at this Footscray landmark is nothing if not versatile.

Flying solo? A bowl of lamb broth (with or without liver, lung and tripe) or a gosh naan stuffed with lamb, onion and cumin will see you right. Date night? Perhaps some kazan tugrasi are in order, the pan-fried dumplings connected by a delicious lacework of crisp batter.

The best plan, though, is to bring a group and go big. Order ahead if a whole lamb is your style; otherwise take your sheep in pieces. Uyghur chefs are masters of the cumin lamb skewer, and Karlaylisi’s rib and kidney kawaps are right up there with the best in town. Meanwhile, the handmade noodles are a must.

Service is low-key, but the vibe is sincere and the food is the real deal.