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For more than 25 years, the Supper Club was a haven for night owls. Now, roaming Greek restaurant Kafeneion (another Con Christopoulos creation) is occupying the space.

Little has changed about the venue – there’s still the clubby vibe, the wide art deco window, the murals. But those now form the backdrop to Kafeneion and its raucousness. Nights start with whipped cod roe and Greek village salad. Generous braised beef cheeks are fall-apart tender, and chicken with pasta is pure comfort on a plate.

Service borders on chaotic yet is still somehow charming, and there are excellent drinks. And late at night, there’s the luxury of sinking your spoon into chicken soup, its broth deeply lemony, the combination of rice, egg and meat the epitome of elegant comfort.