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Crystallised violets, blueberry sorbet, fairy floss, pop rocks and cheesecake: it made for bonkers reading on menus 20 years ago, and Il Bac’s signature dessert still blows minds.

This beloved Venetian fine diner is as charming as ever with its classic dark timber, starched white linens and flattering light. Plates, though, veer more contemporary. Batons of saffron meringue scaffold beautifully tender octopus. Blackberries and nori tuile are the razzle-dazzle on venison tartare. Prosciutto crumble is snuck into a quince and fig dessert.

Regulars seek out the simple pleasure of Moreton Bay bug spaghettini and its lip-slicking garlicky sauce, delivered by staff who know their martini order. Later, they’ll pour you some big Italian juice and hold the door as they farewell you. It’s that handle on the finer details that keep people coming back.