Seamless is the word for The Bridge Room, from the curve of its Art Deco exterior echoed in the wood panelling, to the Scandi/Japanese inspired decor and balanced east-meets-west menu. It goes for the service, too, relaxed yet as polished as the bare oak tables topped with custom-made ceramics. They were designed by chef and owner Ross Lusted, who took off from Rockpool more than a decade ago to work overseas with a luxe resort group, accompanied by wife Sunny. Now he surveys his domain from the neat kitchen window, sending out dishes such as black ash-grilled duck breast with vibrant roasted blueberries, and crisp-skinned Murray cod with a richly flavoured black vinegar Teochew sauce, each confidently crafted for visual and flavour appeal. Form follows function, right through to a stellar dessert of whipped black sesame, toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice and coconut sugar.

And … Pre-theatre menus allow for a fine dining fix in a flash.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Scandi–Zen CBD fine diner without the corporate stuffiness.
Best bit Confident flavours that rise above trends.
Worst bit A little mood music wouldn’t hurt.