It takes time to absorb the specialness of Sixpenny; to take in the mid-century elegance of the dining room; the luxury of space between tables; and the observant grace of restaurant manager George Papaioannou. The menu, from Dan Puskas and Tony Schifilliti, is just as considered, with recurring motifs of rich ferments, rare botanicals and snap-crackle textures creating high points across eight small courses. A sweet potato taco of kangaroo is impossibly crisp, vegetables are deployed more often than meat, and those rich, creamy emulsions could be macadamia, goat’s curd or broccolini koji. Even a pink, fat-fringed slab of dry-aged pork loin is lightened with chicken jus, allowing it to shine (such restraint allows the wine pairings and expanded sake selection to shine as well). This is dining as a civilised and conversation-inducing pursuit, at least until the multi-layered Russian honey cake arrives as a delicious exclamation point.