The decor might have a retro nightclub feel, but there's something bright and contemporary about the food at this view-blessed seafood restaurant. Deep-sea bugs in a puff pastry case is prettily presented with a vanilla lobster oil and bisque sauce, while slipper lobster wrapped in crisp golden noodles is lifted with a kick of sugar and spice from a delectable chilli-lime sauce. The cold plate of crustaceans, shellfish and seafood is so fresh it might have been plucked from a nearby rockpool, while the samphire on perfectly poached king salmon with steamed shellfish actually was plucked from a nearby rockpool. Ocean also does a mean dessert, as in indulgent brulee balanced with a tart and intense strawberry and rhubarb salad, shortcrust biscuit and palate-cleansing strawberry ice-cream. Ocean is the more casual little sister restaurant to the Cowrie (see pxxx), and maintains its individual identity.